The Food Issue | Top Dishes

In our quest to uncover the city’s top dishes, we dined out a lot. And wefound an impressive spread of iconic dishes that our local chefs havebeen honing for years. From American to Asian, Italian, Latin, French,and Mediterranean, we present our top picks from each culinary tradition.And we didn’t just sample these dishes—we sat down with thechefs themselves to discuss the nuances of their fl avors, the inspirationsdriving their restaurants, their take on the latest season of The Bear,and their favorite dining spots (hint: they all recommend each other’splaces, revealing a tight-knit community of culinary artisans). Additionally, we explore Denver’s best appetizers, where first impressions count, and highlight the top tasting menus because why settle for one mouthwatering dish when you can enjoy a full culinary journey?Bon appétit, Denver—orders up!

At Lucina Eatery & Bar, chefs Erasmo “Ras” Casiano and Diego Coconati, both of whom were named James Beardsemifinalists in the Best Chef: Mountain Region category in January, know that the best things in life come from quality collaboration. Take, for example, Lucina’s signature dish: the weekend-only Paella of the Moment. “It’s a Spanish dish,”Casiano says, “but really it’s a culmination of a lot of world happenings.”

The same could be said for Lucina’s entire menu, which borrows flavors and culinary traditions from Latino communities everywhere, from South America to the Caribbean to Spain. It’s a way for the chefs to honor their ethnic backgrounds. Casiano grew up eating his family’s Mexican food in Texas, while Coconati’s roots span Argentina, Venezuela, and Puerto Rico. At Lucina, the chefs combine these influences in dishes that showcase flavors, colors, and presentations that are anything but expected. “It’s not a splitting of philosophies, but rather a merging of them,” Casiano says. “In Spanish, we have a saying: ‘ni tanto ni tan poco,’ meaning ‘not too much over here, not too little over there.’ It’s all about balance.”

Lucina’s paella is a perfect example. The menu describes it as a showcase of “Mother Earth’s Bounty”; Casiano calls it “a celebration of the day’s catch.” Depending on what the chefs are able to source from local farms and top importers, the dish comes laden with ingredients like red peppers, plump mussels, oyster mushrooms, carrot strings, chorizo, shrimp, and large chunks of Chilean salmon, all simmered with Spanish bomba rice flavored by grated tomatoes and saffron stalk. The made-to-order dish easily feeds two to three and may take up to an hour to prepare. And it’s well worth the wait.

When the dish arrives at the table in a waft of saffron and seafood, Casiano says the rice is continuing to caramelize in the pan. “I like to say that patience is a virtuous trait when I drop off the dish,” he says. “To get that crispy layer of rice on the outside, let it finish.”

When the time comes, it’s love at first bite—rich but not overpowering, savory down to the last grain of rice.

Lucina
2245 Kearney St., 101
720.814.1053 | lucinaeatery.co

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